Bahir Dar, Ethiopia

Advertisements
1 / 14

 

What was supposed to happen

Fly 5 hours from Lalibela to Gondar, transfer, then fly from Gondar to Addis Ababa, transfer, and then fly from Addis Ababa to Bahir Dar.  Arrive.  Try to find hotel (we weren’t able to make advanced reservations).
What actually happened:
When we checked in at the Lalibela airport — long story short — it turns out that 3 guys had chartered a special flight that day from Lalibela to Bahir Dar — a 25 minute (as opposed to 5 hour) flight.  It was going to arrive in 5 minutes and depart 5 minutes later.  And for whatever reason, they were going to let us mooch a ride.    Once we arrived in Bahir Dar, the one nice resort (nice is an understatement) in town offered to let us stay for 50% of the price.  Well worth it – check out pictures of sunrise over the Lake (above).

Suffice it to say, the rest of our visit in Bahir Dar was a continuation of this unbelievable luck.

Highlights include:

  • the Saturday market, where people from anywhere within a 24 hour walk come each week to trade livestock, materials, food, and anything else you can think of
  • Lake Tana — while it’s known for its monasteries, the highlight for me was seeing the elusive Hippos and the boats make of papyrus!  Lake Tana is also the source of the Blue Nile River, which is the Nile River’s main tributary
  • Blue Nile Falls (Tis Isat) — even though 75% of the once magnificent falls are now diverted for hydro-electric power, it was still great to make the trip to see the Falls
  • Daniel —  the first (of two total) Ethiopians we met who spoke fluent English.  Long story short, he is now a tour operator/comedian for Ethiopian Airlines.  He live sin B.D and took us out to the most fun places in the city.

Travel to Bahir Dar

Where to stay: Kuriftu Resort & Spa – what a splurge!  This eco-lodge is covered in beautiful flowers and is right on the shores of Lake Tana

Where to eat: Wude Coffee (across from the Kuriftu), St. Gabriel’s “bar” for the only truly cold Dashen beers in town, Chewata Bar for a great place to go out at night
Travel Tips:

  • Don’t make advanced hotel reservations – at the airport are staff from all the hotels and the prices become negotiable
  • Make all sightseeing arrangements through the Ghion Hotel next to the Kuriftu
  • Go on a Saturday to see the market
  • Get Daniel’s e-mail from me – best guide in the area
  • “Bahir Dar is great aside from the Malaria.”  For a visit here, be sure to have anti-malarials and bug-repellent

Leave a comment

Filed under Africa, Ethiopia

Lalibela, Ethiopia

Advertisements
3 / 15

What am I doing in Ethiopia? Great question, one I’ll save for a later post. Let’s just jump right into it –

After 30.5 hours of traveling, from New York, through Istanbul, and an overnight stint in the Addis Ababa airport, we in Lalibela, Ethiopia. Sadly, my luggage did not. Thank goodness for the airplane kit with the socks & the toothbrush, which downgraded the situation from desperate for a shower to minor inconvenience.

What we’ve seen is too magnificent for my usual brevity, so I’ve written a bit more below:

The Second Jerusalem
In the 12th Century, King Lalibela of Ethiopia was poisoned by his step-brother, in a power struggle. The King fell into a deep coma, during which angels instructed him to build a second Jerusalem (in response to Christian-ruled Jerusalem falling from Crusaders to Muslim rule in 1178). From his childhood and/or exile memories of time spent in the Holy Land, King Lalibela spent the next 23 years carving 13 magnificent rock churches into the stone ground. The churches are divided into 2 clusters – one which represents physical Jerusalem & the other heavenly Jerusalem.

The Churches
The churches are hewn down into the volcanic rock. That is to say, they are not carved into the sides, rather the roofs are parallel with the ground; one must walk down a set of rock stairs, surrounded by high rock walls, and there before you appear freestanding, monolithic churches. Each is entirely different, but the sites are inspired by the original Jerusalem – there is a Golgotha, tomb of Adam, and even a man-made Jordan river between the Northern & Southern clusters. The churches house treasures of 12th C paintings, icons, and wooden tabernacles. Sadly, ever since the 15 lb. gold cross was returned in 1999 (having been stolen in 1997), it’s no longer on display for tourists.

Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity
Ethiopia is the only country in Africa never to have been colonized. The Christianity here is not that prosthelytized by Europeans in the 19th Century or brought over by modern missionaries ala “Book of Mormon.” Christianity here traces back to the very origin of Christianity. There is a strong Judeo-influence on the traditions, which makes sense given that what is being practiced is 1st Century Christianity and with Ethiopia and the land of Israel deeply connected through history and myth (King Solomon & Queen Sheba). In fact, until 1974, the Ethiopian flag bore the Lion of Judah as its symbol.

Travel to Lalibela

Where to stay: Tukul Village – great find & value, very clean, unbelievable views, great food, and free wifi & breakfast. President Clinton has even stayed here.
Where to eat: Tukul Village for breakfast, Ben Abeba for the views, and Seven Olives for the best food in town
Travel Tips:
– use a guide for the Churches; I highly recommend Tilahun, whom we used (message me for contact information)
– fly to Lalibela — it’s a 1 hr. flight from Addis Ababa (as opposed to the 2 day bus ride)

Leave a comment

Filed under Africa, Ethiopia

May 2012 Schedule

Advertisements

May 8-  Depart for Ethiopia

May 10-11- Lalibela, Ethiopia

May 12-13 – Bahar Dar, Ethiopia

May 15-18 – Mekelle, Ethiopia

May 19 – Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

May 20 – Layover in Istanbul, Turkey & back to NYC!

 

Leaving tonight for Ethiopia as part of a consulting project through Columbia Business School (Pangea Advisors & Microlumbia).  Excited to share the travel adventure &  information about Healing Hands of Joy, the amazing organization through which we have this opportunity.  More to come.

Leave a comment

Filed under Africa, Ethiopia, Travel (General)

How to Fight Back When Your Flight Is Canceled

Advertisements

Ok, so this NYTimes article  is ” 2011,” but technically, so is this blog (at least in title).

The advice, however, is timeless.

How to Fight Back When Your Flight Is Canceled (1/25/2011)

By Michelle Higgens

AS thousands of passengers who were caught up in the latest bout of snowstorms along the East Coast can attest, when weather disrupts the system, travelers are basically on their own. Just getting someone on the phone to confirm a new flight was a major headache for travelers who had been stranded for days in cities up and down the East Coast during the holidays.

Take Adam J. Brill, an analyst at a software company from Jersey City, N.J., and his wife, Elizabeth. When their JetBlue flight home from Fort Myers, Fla., was canceled on Dec. 26, the couple called the airline no fewer than 25 times in an effort to confirm their seats on a new flight. Each time they heard the same recording: JetBlue was experiencing unusually high call volume because of the storm.

Eventually the Brills were rebooked on a return flight four days after their original flight home was scheduled. It too was canceled the day of travel, but not because of the storm, which had stopped. Rather, the plane didn’t make it to the airport because it was stuck in a different city. Unable to afford any more time away from work, the couple rented a car and drove home to Jersey City — a 22-hour trip.

“Ultimately I understand that weather has the power to negatively impact travel plans,” Mr. Brill said. “While this started out as a weather delay, the way my trip ended was entirely preventable.”

While flight delays and cancellations are unavoidable during bad weather, some of the related service issues are not. That’s why it’s important for travelers like the Brills to know what they can — and cannot — expect from the airlines so that they can act quickly when flights go awry. It’s not just enough to know your rights. You need to be persistent and use everything at your disposal, from social media to the fine print in ticket rules. Here are some guidelines.

Tweet for Help

Even though problems like bad weather, air traffic delays and mechanical issues are hard to predict and often beyond the airlines’ control, most carriers automatically notify travelers — at least those who have signed up for flight alerts by e-mail, text message or phone call. Those alerts, which many passengers fail to sign up for, combined with Twitter, can put you ahead of the pack.

Increasingly airlines, including JetBlue, Southwest and Delta, are using Twitter to notify passengers of major flight cancellations and assist in rebooking. Last year, Delta created a dedicated Twitter account for customer service issues, @DeltaAssist, with reservation agents online Monday through Friday from 8 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Eastern time. Because of the viral nature of Twitter, with Twitterers habitually “re-tweeting” one another’s posts, customers who reach out to the airline via Twitter may get a quicker response than they would by phone or another communications channel as airlines attempt to quell any negative publicity.

For example, Mr. Brill was disconnected on two separate calls, after holding for nearly 20 minutes each time, when trying to find out what happened to his canceled Thursday flight. While waiting to speak with an agent on the third try, he reached out to JetBlue via Twitter and received a response. The Twitter team at JetBlue rebooked the couple on a flight from Southwest Florida International Airport to Kennedy Airport in New York the next day. But because there was no guarantee that the flight would leave, and the couple needed to return to work, they decided to drive instead.

Ultimately, JetBlue reimbursed the Brills $431 in hotel, toll and car rental expenses, which might have had something to do with the 25 Twitter messages Mr. Brill sent out to the airline during the long drive home, and the detailed follow-up e-mail he sent to the company about the ordeal.

Read the Fine Print

The Department of Transportation doesn’t require airlines to compensate passengers for damages when flights are delayed or canceled, according to the Aviation Consumer Protection Division. Each carrier spells out how it handles canceled flights in a “contract of carriage,” which can be found on the airline’s Web site. Print this out before you head to the airport, so when issues arise you will have the pertinent pages on hand for reference and even show to an airline employee who may not be familiar with the details.

For example, JetBlue’s customers whose flights are delayed for an hour after departure because of a “controllable irregularity” like a maintenance issue are entitled to a $25 credit good for future travel and $50 for delays from two to five hours. Delta says it offers meal vouchers to passengers delayed for more than four hours after departure time and will put passengers up in a hotel when the delay is between 10 p.m. and 6 a.m. You may also demand a refund for a canceled flight from any airline — even if it’s because of inclement weather — if you decide not to take the trip.

Europe does better by passengers. European Union airlines flying to or from a member state are required to pay customers up to 600 euros, or about $790 at $1.31 to the euro, depending on the length of the delay and length of the flight, when the problem is the carrier’s fault. Even for weather delays of at least two hours or more, passengers are entitled to hotel rooms and meals. The rules also apply to any flight by any airline departing the European Union, though enforcement outside Europe can be difficult.

Avoid Being Bumped

The last passengers to check in for a flight are often the first to be bumped when a flight is oversold. So be sure to check in before you head to the airport. Many airlines allow customers to check in online, as much as 24 hours in advance.

If you do get bumped, ask for cash, not a voucher. Passengers who are involuntarily bumped and rebooked on another flight within two hours after their original domestic flight time (or within four hours for international flights) are entitled to $400 in cash, according to the Department of Transportation regulations. If they are not rerouted within that two-hour window, they are eligible for up to $800.

Even stricter rules apply in Europe, where compensation ranges from 125 euros to 600 euros, depending on the length of the flight and the amount of time the passenger would be delayed.

At least one airline, Delta, recently introduced another twist to the bumping game. In November, Delta started taking bids from passengers at check-in willing to give up their seat on oversold flights. The move, the airline stated on its blog, blog.delta.com, eliminates the “auction process” at the gate and avoids inconveniencing passengers. But it’s also a way for the airline to pay less for freeing up seats when a flight is oversold.

Report Lost Bags Immediately

If your bags don’t make it off the plane, report the lost luggage to airline personnel before you leave the airport. The Department of Transportation makes this clear in its Fly-Rights guide, adding: “Insist that they create a report and give you a copy, even if they say the bag will be in on the next flight. Get an appropriate phone number for following up (not the Reservations number).”

Most airlines will try to return your bags within 24 hours but make no promises about reimbursing you for your costs. In fact, liability rules favor the airlines, not the passengers. For a trip within the United States, an airline can invoke a ceiling of $3,300 a passenger on the amount of money it must pay if the bag cannot be found, according to the Transportation of Department.

Airlines generally determine the amount of compensation they pay based on the depreciated value of the baggage. But it’s up to you to submit a claim, and waiting too long to do so could invalidate that claim. Many airlines require travelers to file an initial complaint before they leave the airport. If the bag is never found, American, for example, must receive a written claim no later than 30 days after the initial report. For Delta, it’s 21 days. All the more reason to pack light and carry on.

Leave a comment

Filed under Travel (General)

Isla de Baru, Colombia

Advertisements

Crystal blue water, white sand, and Caribbean sun – ours were 2 days of pure vacation on Isla de Baru, off the coast of Cartagena 

Leave a comment

Filed under Colombia, South America

Cartegena, Colombia

Advertisements

7 / 15
 I’ll start by sharing that it took me half the week to finally start calling this Caribbean city Carta-henna, instead of mispronouncing it as  Carta-henYa.  A UNESCO World Heritage site, Cartagena’s old town is a tourist-friendly spread of colonial Spanish buildings washed in bright colors.  Cafes and shops line the streets, shadowed by balconies and enveloped in sprawling, flowering plants.  The city is a fascinating blend  – somewhere between South American and Caribbean – and the feel and flavor nowhere more wonderful than in the local cuisine.

Leave a comment

Filed under Colombia, South America

Bogota, Colombia

Advertisements

9 / 13
 When I travelled to Colombia over spring break with friends from Columbia Business School, I couldn’t help but wonder how far Colombia had come from the headline-making situation of the last decade.  What we saw in Bogota was a sophisticated city with a rich culture and historical district, fascinating museums (see the fat Mona Lisa from the Botero house), and some very trendy and upscale neighborhoods and eateries.  Despite grey skies and temperate mountains, the beauty of a city set amongst the mountains, progressive with its clean transportation, and with strong upward momentum was evident all around.

Leave a comment

Filed under Colombia

Maderas Beach, Nicaragua

Advertisements

11 / 12
I thought that the end of the Pre-MBA traveling would be the end of posting on the blog, but with so many upcoming trips, I realized I wanted to share the photographs and experiences.  So, voila!  I’m back on the blog.

This past week I went on a yoga/surfing retreat in Nicaragua organized by Columbia Business School’s Healthy Living Club.  After the weeks upon weeks of recruiting for summer internships, the grey NYC winter skies, and the anticipation of upcoming exams — it was the perfect R&R.

I had expected a sophisticated, highly commercialized tourist industry.   What I found was  private guest houses tucked away amongst the vegetation and along unadulterated beaches.  The people, the food, and the weather were the stuff to write home about — the roads and the transportation, not so much, but it was all part of the adventure.

 

Where to Stay:  Maderas Village, steps from the beach, the experience at Maderas Village will want to cancel your ticket home.  Gorgeous eco-friendly bunglows, family-style dinners with excellent local cuisine, and surfing & yoga all on premise.  It’s reason enough to go to Nicaragua

1 Comment

Filed under Central America, Nicaragua

The End Part II

Advertisements

After 123 travel days, 45 posts, 5000+ views, and 2 months post-travel to wind down, I’m calling the blog to a close.

True, we’re missing a “Lima, Peru” post, but the combination of a crashed hard-drive and the beginning of Business School in a few short days precludes me from making that a reality for now.  Inevitably, wanderlust will call to me over the various school vacations – and undoubtedly, I’ll answer – and perhaps revive the blogging in fits and spurts.  But in the meantime, this travel bug is calling it a night.

Farewell, L’hitraot, Hasta Luego, Sonra Görüşürüz, เห็นคุณภายหลัง!

Leave a comment

Filed under Travel (General)

Arequipa, Peru

Advertisements
13 / 14

The city of Arequipa itself, Peru’s second most populous city, is a UNESCO heritage site, due to the imposing white Spanish colonial buildings throughout the city.  It is a fun city, with excellent restaurants, but the reason to go to Arequipa is for the landscape  of the surrounding environs.  At nearly 8,000 feet, wedged between the coast and the Andes Mountains, the region is one of the highest altitude deserts, dotted with a series of volcanoes.  It is magnificent.

From Arequipa, we took an overnight trip to Chivay, notably in order to visit the Colca Canyon and watch the flight of the condors.

Leave a comment

Filed under Peru, South America