Balkans Road Trip Part 1: Belgrade, Serbia

It’s a city not known for it’s beauty.  In fact, it’s often referred to as one of Europe’s ugliest capitals.  But what Belgrade, Serbia, lacks in aesthetic , it makes up for in personality.  A city whose most recent history includes its dark role as the capital of former Yugoslavia, Belgrade is one of Europe’s oldest – and most conquered – cities (having been settled by Celts and conquered 38 times – by the Romans, Slavs, Byzantines, Frankish Empire, Bulgarian Empire, Ottomans for 500 years, and Hapsburgs).

With a few delightful pedestrian boulevards (Knez Mihajlova  and the Bohemian Skadarlija in particular) scattered amongst the rest of the city’s crumbling Soviet-era cement blocks, Belgrade’s true charm lies in its under-developed tourism (and prices!) and perfectly developed, thriving nightlife.

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    With Ari’s Serbian friend Tamara in front of St. Sava church, which has been under construction for 80 years

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    Remnants from the 1999 NATO Bombing

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    The iconic Hotel Moskva

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    The main pedestrian area Knelz Mihailova

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    Sunset from the public park at the Fortress looking over the Sava and Danube rivers

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    The famous Victor monument

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    Knelz Milhailova at night

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    me & the bro walking around the bohemian Skadarlija street

 

We arrived for both the largest football match in the city (with riot police lining every street) and the Belgrade marathon (which was drastically different from my favorite day in New York).

What to do:

  • “Walking tour”  There are free walking tours that run daily, or you can do what we did and create your own (click for our map), check out the itinerary below – you can see almost everything in <2 hours.  Best of all, nearly all of Belgrade’s attractions are free (and are local, not tourist, spots)
  • Belgrade Underground – our one paid tourist activity, and glad we did it.  A great (and passive) way to discover the hidden underground places from Belgrade’s 38 times being conquered, including Yugoslavian bunkers, ancient Roman ruins, and Ottoman buried wells. 12 Euro.
  • Nightlife!  See below – don’t miss it!
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Walking through the underground bunkers

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Entrance to the Yugoslavian secret bunkers

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Looking out from the fortress onto the Danube

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Ari in front of the ancient Roman ruins…in what once operated as a club

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Military remnants & the military museum

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Gov’t buildings at night

Eating, Drinking, and Nightlife:

  • A mix of Eastern European with some Turkish influence, Serbian food is, on the whole, not particularly inspiring.  The highlight was the cheese-filled phyllo dough burek pastries, which we lived on the entire weekend.  Note: Almost all bakeries (pekaras) are closed on Sunday, which we learned the hard way
  • Nightlife starts late.  Begin with dinner/snacks at 10pm at a kafana, which is a traditional tavern.  The best have live bohemians bands that play Serbian traditional music, from whom increasingly-rowdy tables of guests “order” their favorite sing-alongs.  Make sure to order some rakija, the traditional Serbian brandy shots made from various fruit.  We had apple, pear, plum, and peach, each less palatable than the one before, but all part of the experience.  Reservations for kafanas are required, even if they look empty.
  • Conclude the night with one (or many) of Belgrade’s clubs.  We went to Plastic, which is the most well known in Serbian nightlife.  People don’t start arriving until about midnight – the party closes at 4 and moves next door to Mint, the after party club with shared owners.  As the weather warms, people walk from one to the next of the floating clubs along the river, which boast international DJs and impressive parties.  There are no cover fees to enter the clubs, but reservations are required.  Drinks are extremely inexpensive – with Rakija/whiskey costing $2-$4 per drink.  No wonder the nightlife is so impressive!
  • Lastly, I have to mention the homemade wine.  It’s terribly sour…but apparently it’s Serbian custom to mix it with Coca Cola, which forms a saccharine drink they call “bamboo.”  Don’t ask.
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The band serenading patrons in the smoke filled kafana

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#untzuntz at Plastic

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#letustakeaselfie at the club

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Sour homemade wine + Coca Cola = bamboo?

Where to stay

  • At $54/night, our AirBNB rental a few minutes walk from the city center could not be beat.

Our (approximate) walking tour
1. Tasmajdan park and Church St Marko
2. National Parlament 
3. Terazije Street (with the iconic Hotel Moskva)
4. Trg Republike
5. Skadarlija  – great Kafanas!
7. Studenski Trg 
8. Knez Mihajlova – the main pedestrian thoroughfare 
9. KALEMEGDAN FORTESS – go for sunset, you’ll be glad you did! 
10. Belgrade Port 

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1 Comment

Filed under Europe, Serbia

One response to “Balkans Road Trip Part 1: Belgrade, Serbia

  1. PosB

    Kafana from the picture Skadarlija, bohemian district http://www.dvajelena.rs

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